What are the safari options available?

Wildlife viewing is the reason most set their sights on southern Africa. As a result, a number of ways to experience the bush have been developed. You can opt for a self-drive safari in a national park, fly straight to a luxurious lodge in a private game reserve, or -- best of all -- combine the two. The more adventurous take their chances on a specialist safari and go on foot, horseback, bike, canoe, or even on the back of an elephant. If you're keen to walk the wilderness accompanied by an experienced, armed game ranger, the trails in Umfolozi, 30,000 hectares (74,100 acres) of pristine bush and savanna (with no roads or paths other than those created by animals), are rated by experienced hikers as South Africa's best, particularly the 4-day Traditional Trail. Alternatively, the walking safaris in Kruger National Park, which offers a choice of seven separate wilderness trails, are also highly recommended. For game spotting on horseback, book a safari with Equus Safaris in the the Waterberg Mountains, or take a day ride in a reserve in the Victoria Falls vicinity. Botswana highlights include cycling safaris offered in Tuli, quad-bike safaris at Jack's Camp in the Makgadikgadi Pans, and mokoro (dugout canoe) safaris in the Okovango delta -- one of the best ways to get around the waterways. If you've always had a soft spot for the pachyderm, you can mount your very own elephant in Mpumalanga, Botswana or Victoria Falls -- one of the benefits is that they can get remarkably close to game.

Which country should I focus on?

South Africa has the best-managed national parks in Africa, as well as some of the most luxurious private reserves; but if you're looking for the original untamed Eden, nothing beats Botswana, particularly the Okovango delta. This is largely due to a government policy aimed at low-density, high-cost tourism. So be warned: Little here comes cheap. Until the land-grab and economic crisis is resolved in Zimbabwe, visiting here should be restricted to Victoria Falls, which is close to the Botswana and Zambian border.

How do I get around between reserves?

In South Africa, the major reserves are concentrated in Mpumalanga and the Limpopo Province, and you can reach them by flying directly to Johannesburg or Cape Town, then catching a connecting flight to an airport in or near the reserves; from here you can hire a car or arrange a transfer with your lodge. Or you can opt for the 4- to 5-hour (or more if you include the Blyde River Canyon) drive from Johannesburg; the scenery is pleasant, and there are fabulous lodging options along the way.

To reach KwaZulu-Natal's reserves, most of which are in Zululand, fly from Johannesburg or Cape Town to Durban or Richard's Bay airport. The biggest reserve, Hluhluwe-Umfolozi, is a 3-hour drive from Durban, and 2 hours from Richard's Bay.

Port Elizabeth airport is less than an hour from the Eastern Cape reserves; this is often the start or exit point of the 7-hour driving trip along the Garden Route to or from Cape Town.

From South Africa you'll have to fly via Johannesburg airport to get to Botswana's reserves, most of which are reached by charter flight from Maun or Kasane.

What should I do if I'm on a budget?

By far the best budget option is to rent a car and drive yourself around the reserves, concentrating on the national parks (like Kruger) and/or the provincial reserves (like Hluhluwe-Umfolozi). The roads in these reserves are in good condition, so you won't need a four-wheel-drive. There are a number of advantages besides cost: You can set your own pace, take in more than one environment (many visitors, for instance, combine a trip to Kruger with a KwaZulu-Natal reserve trip), and bring the kids (many private game reserves don't accept children). Kruger accommodation is usually in semi-serviced rondawels (pronounced ron-da-villes, these are round, thatch-roofed cottages with kitchens and en-suite bathrooms) that offer excellent value for money (around R380/$48 a night). Cheaper units won't have their own kitchen, but all feature a fridge, tea-making facilities, and a barbecue area. Linens and towels are also provided. Most rest camps have a shop selling supplies, including basics like dishwashing liquid, wood, firelighters, tinned foods, frozen meat, toiletries, and aspirin; you can also purchase field guides here. Most also have a restaurant serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Try and combine this with at least 2 nights in a private reserve (for reasons below)-the best Big 5 budget options close to Kruger are Honeyguide and Umlani. These range from R3,400 to R3,960 ($425-$496) a night for two, including game drives and all meals. The best Big 5 budget option close to Hluhluwe is Mkuze Falls (from R2,200-R5,000/$270-$625 double including game drives and all meals).

Do I need to visit a private reserve?

The best reason to visit a private reserve is that you are guaranteed to see more animals, and you will learn more about the intricacies of the bush. Visitors are taken for game drives in an open-topped vehicle by an armed and knowledgeable ranger, usually helped by a tracker, and in radio communication with other vehicles. Sightings are excellent on game drives (at least two of the Big 5 in one drive), and it's great to have your questions answered without having to flip through a book. In certain reserves like Sabi Sand, Timbavati, Thornybush, and Phinda, rangers are allowed to drive off-road, taking you almost within touching distance of animals. A typical day starts with a 3-hour, early-morning game drive, where eight (or fewer, at the more expensive lodges) guests are accompanied by a game ranger and tracker -- followed by a large cooked breakfast, possibly in the bush. A guided walk is generally offered before lunch, and afternoons are spent relaxing at the pool or on a viewing deck. Night drives take place during the sunset/early-evening hours, with drinks (sundowners) served in the bush, and the last hour or so is spent driving with a spotlight. Night drives can be incredibly dull (it's pitch black), or totally exhilarating, with nocturnal predators stalking -- and killing -- prey, a rare but privileged sighting. Dinners are large, often buffet, and usually served under the stars by firelight.

What's the difference between the private reserves? Should I visit more than one?

It's definitely worth combining reserves, moving to new landscapes that support different species. If this is your first time, it's worth choosing a Big 5 reserve -- the presence of lion, leopard, rhino, elephant, and buffalo usually mean a great concentration of other species as well. The Big 5 reserves flanking Kruger (Sabi Sands, Manyeleti, Timbavati) are your best bet in South Africa, as there are no fences between them and Kruger, creating a massive wilderness area. Sabi Sands is the private reserve that has the highest concentration of both game and luxury lodges. Big 5 reserves that have the additional bonus of being malaria-free are Welgevonden (a pretty reserve very close to Johannesburg) Makweti in the North-West, and Shamwari in Eastern Cape.

Although the reserves surrounding Kruger are typical of the African bush and savanna, the Okavango Delta offers a lush landscape that attracts an incredible variety of bird life (not to mention a dense concentration of game) -- and is a must on any safari itinerary. Then there are the desert reserves like Tswalu, Kgaligadi Transfrontier Park, and Makgadigadi Pans -- with huge horizons and stark landscapes, these support species that have adapted to harsh conditions, like cheetah and gemsbok (oryx). By contrast, KwaZulu-Natal's semitropical climate creates a more junglelike environment -- beautiful, but spotting animals is a little more difficult in dense foliation -- and a safari can be combined with diving and snorkeling excursions. The relatively uncluttered landscape of the Eastern Cape is great for game viewing, but it doesn't have the drama of the reserves in the north, and is primarily used as a tack-on to the Garden Route.

I've decided on the private reserve . . . how should I choose my lodge?

It's worth mentioning that some of the larger lodges simply feel like plush hotels. Select a private lodge that takes no more than 8 to 12 guests per camp -- this means you are given very personal service and the peace to absorb your surroundings, and privacy is paramount -- units are usually set far apart, often with luxuries like private plunge pools. If, however, you want to get a real feel for the bush, consider tented bush camps, where essentials like hot water and en-suite bathrooms are standard features, but canvas walls allow the sounds of the bush to connect you with the outdoors. If you don't mind living out of a suitcase, moving from camp to camp is the ideal way to see different environments as well as plentiful game; and nowhere does it get as good as Botswana -- see chapter 10 for a listing of safari operators who specialize in this area, as well as for a detailed description of the type of accommodations available.

If I'm visiting a private reserve, do I still need to include a National Park or provincial reserve in my itinerary?

Not necessarily. In a national park or provincial reserve you are, after all, in a closed vehicle, you can't leave the road, and you're not trained to spot animals in the bush. On the other hand, you may appreciate the relative privacy: There's nothing like spotting a cheetah on the side of the road, with no other soul in sight -- a privilege you'll never have in a private reserve, where other guests are onboard, and another vehicle is on the way as soon as an animal is spotted.

When's the best time to go on safari?

The dry winter months (June-Oct, particularly Oct) are considered best. That's when the vegetation has died back and animals are easier to see and concentrated around the diminishing sources of water. Unless it was a particularly wet summer, the malaria risk is also considerably lower. But spring and summer bring their own benefits: Many animals have young (there's nothing quite as delightful as a baby giraffe), the vegetation is lush and often flowering, and colorful migrant birds adorn the trees. It is more difficult to spot animals in spring and summer, however, and you'll almost definitely need to spend time in a private reserve if you want to be assured of seeing big game.

How long do I need to spend on safari?

To honestly say you've experienced the bush, you'll need a minimum of 3 nights and 2 full days.

How safe am I on safari?

You are undertaking a journey through a landscape where wild animals abound, and irresponsible behavior could result in death. Malaria is also a serious threat -- potentially fatal.

I've heard that walking safaris are the best way to experience the bush. Is this true?

In a sense, yes. Guided by an armed ranger, you will see many things that people in cars blindly cruise by, and the experience of spotting rhino just yards away on foot is unforgettable. The emphasis, however, is not on tracking game (no ranger would take you within striking distance of a big cat) as much as it is on understanding the intricacies of the relationships in the bush, and communing with nature. The ranger is armed, so there is no real danger, and the wilderness trails in Kruger and Hluhluwe reserves enjoy an unblemished safety record.

What should I pack?

Pack light, particularly if you are taking a charter plane to Botswana, which only allows one soft-sided bag weighing 10 kilograms (22 lb.). Choose colors that blend in with the bush: gray, brown/beige, and khaki are best. Loose cotton clothing tends to be the most comfortable and protects your limbs from mosquitoes. If you intend to walk, you'll need long pants to protect you from prickly vegetation and ticks, as well as comfortable hiking boots. A warm sweater, coat, long pants, scarf, and gloves are recommended during evening game drives in winter (May-Aug); you'll also need warm sleepwear. A fitted broad-brimmed hat, swimwear, good sunglasses, and sunscreen are essential in summer. Though many lodges supply insect repellent, pack your own, as well as every other malaria precaution. And, of course, don't forget binoculars and a camera (a telephoto lens is ideal) and plenty of film, though you can usually purchase more at the camp. If you bring a video camera, pack a 12-volt adapter for charging the batteries (keep in mind, however, that electricity isn't always supplied on safaris).

Wilderness Etiquette--Because southern Africa is constantly afflicted by drought and tap water is not recycled, try to use as little water as possible, even in cities. Don't stray from paths -- this leads to erosion. If you're in a four-wheel-drive vehicle, do not thunder along unspoiled dunes or bush. If you smoke, be sure to extinguish matches and cigarettes and carry the butts with you -- they take more than 20 years to biodegrade. Never touch, scratch, or wet rock art. Never approach wildlife if they appear in any way disturbed by your presence -- rules regarding marine animals are particularly strict.